Sunday, June 14, 2009

T2 - La originale


[We are now in Ulanbaatar, capital of Mongolia which is known as the 'Land of the Blue Sky' from which the largest empire the world has ever known hailed from under the great Chinggis Khaan. We are uploading blog posts typed in Word during our first leg in China. We are using China as our base country and will be making multiple entries in and out of China over the next few months. Unfortunately, blogspot is one of many blocked sites in China at present (Welcome to lesson 1 in culture shock - communism!) and we therefore have to get out of the country before we can blog at this site each time! We are still pondering as to whether we should move our blog to another site but until then, thanks for your patience and apologies for the delayed news!]

Written on 15 May 2009 in Guangzhou, China - birthplace of 'yum cha'!

Being a coffee connoisseur in China is an expensive habit. A mere cafe latte at Starbucks costs 25 yuan (which is AUD$5). This is retail robbery when you can get a delicious bowl of noodles plus a drink for 10 yuan next door. However, this doesn't prevent those that uphold the Chinese culture of 'saving face' and embracing all things Western to project an image of wealth and abundance. A local Chinese friend of ours says it is not uncommon for young people to have up to 3 Starbucks coffees a day, setting them back 75 yuan or more each day on coffee alone!

I have taken the courageous step of resolving to have my latte indulgences only ONCE a month while travelling. This is a massive feat for me but I have found some comfort in instant 3-in-1 Nescafe coffee sachets (something I would never drink when its relatively affordable to be a coffee snob in Melbourne).

Another means of coping has been to appreciate tea more. China is a fantastic place to learn about and savour tea. One of the highlights of our trip to Guangzhou was a visit to the tea market with myriads of teas on display for tastings and for sale. This is the tea mecca of the world! We spent some time at Iong Na's tea shop which is a family business. The family tried very hard to communicate with us and thankfully, due to their multilingual abilities Mandarin, Cantonese and Minnan Hua (Hokkien to Malaysians) we managed to string together some semblance of a conversation by interchanging between the 3 languages depending on which words we knew in which language! While sitting down to some tea tastings, we talked about tea, the business, our lives and the intricacies of language!

Here's a summary about tea varieties for you tea lovers and budding tea connoisseurs out there:

Green tea – Green tea is the tea in Asia. Tea leaves are not oxidised, but rather steamed and dried. Leaves maintain more of their natural colour and bear a delicate refreshing flavour. Hangzhou's Longjing (Dragon Well) Tea is a national favourite.

Oolong tea – Among the finest and most difficult teas to produce, oolong falls somewhere between the green and black varieties in that it is only partially oxidised. Tea connoisseurs savour oolong's often flowery or fruity flavour without milk, sugar or other blends.

Black tea – Abundant in the Western world, black tea us called red tea in Chinese. Leaves are completely oxidised before drying, giving black tea its dark colour, full flavour and extra caffeine.

Pu'er tea – The blackest of all teas, pu'er deserves its own category. Leaves undergo double oxidation followed by a period of maturation, resulting in a strong earthy flavour that can be an acquired taste. Often sold as solid cakes or bricks, it is renowned for medicinal effects on the digestive system.

White tea – The rarest ad least-processed variety, white tea is identifiable by silvery hairs that cover the tea buds. Buds (and occasionally leaves) are dried naturally and are not oxidised, yielding a subtle flavour. It is a speciality of Fujian province (where our ancestors hail from!).




Friday, May 15, 2009

Popiah and an 8 year old

Our final evening in Malaysia coincided with Mothers Day. Kenneth's relatives gathered together at Aunty Lily and Uncle Aik's apartment for a popiah party to celebrate Mothers Day together as well as to farewell us. Popiah is difficult to describe but if you can imagine picking out a variety of salads, egg, sauces and Chinese sausage and laying them out and then rolling them all into a skin akin to the skin you roll with Peking Duck then you'll get .... popiah! It makes a healthy and very delicious meal that creates social chatter as everyone has a go making the popiah together.

I had the amusement of sitting next to Kenneth's 8 year old nephew, Jonathan. Like every good Malaysian, Jonathan appreciates his food and hopes to be a chef one day. Here's an insight into our conversation at the table on my final night in Malaysia:

8 year old: Eh, Aunty Stephanie... Aunty Stephanie... Aunty Stephanie...!

Me: Yes, Jonathan?

8 year old: Do you want another (popiah) skin?

Me: Um... maybe later. I am still working on this one (pointing to my 2nd popiah).

8 year old: Oh ok then ... maybe later. Just tell me when you are ready for another skin.

Me: Ok.

8 year old: How many can you eat?

Me: Um.... well I am getting pretty full. Probably 3 or 4. You?

8 year old: Whaaaaaaat?!! Only 3 or 4?! I tell you ... last time ah... I ate TWELVE popiah in one go! In ONE go!

Me: (Practically choking on my popiah and raising a dubious eyebrow towards him) No way! Are you sure?

8 year old: Sure I am sure wan .... how not to be sure? I tell you I ate TWELVE popiah!

Me: You mean you ate them consecutively?

8 year old: Hah?

Me: Did you eat them one after another... like all at the same time?

8 year old: Yah! Yah! All in ONE go!

Me: How big were they? Do you mean you just ate twelve skins? Not twelve popiah?

8 year old: Noooo.... I told youuuuu.... TWELVE popiah like this size (gesturing towards the chubby popiah on his plate).

Me: Wow! Good appetite!

8 year old: Yah! I have a big stomach ...

8 year old's mum (from a distance): Jonathan! How many have you had?

8 year old: Only 3 tonight ...

8 year old's mum: No ... you've had four. I know you've had four.

8 year old: Hah? Only 3 wan I thought .... four ah?

8 year old's mum: Jonathan! Enough!! I said enough! Go and wash your hands...

8 year old: Oh ok ... (goes off to wash his hands obediently)

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Malaysia Boleh!


My Highlights

1. Sweating it out at 6:30am on a 2 hour morning walk at Bukit Kiara with Aunty Lily before the rising tropical sun caught up with us and sitting down to a bowl of Ipoh hor fun (flat rice noodle soup) and kopi-o (Malaysian black coffee) as a reward.

2. Admiring the creative and modern window dressings and shop fit outs at Megamall and The Garden including the clever use of bamboo, old town Portuguese styled windows and empty cans of Carnation sweetened condensed milk.

3. Getting to know Kenneth's relatives better and his old school friends for the first time. Playing with Kenneth's ever growing mob of nieces and nephews. Visiting Aunty Baby Yee (Kenneth's old neighbour) who helped us purchase our wedding rings 2 years ago in PJ. Really good to see her in good health.

4. Purple Cane Tea House. They serve a myriad of teas and every dish on the menu is cooked in or with tea. An example is steamed fish cooked in strawberry and black tea sauce or tofu simmered in green tea, ginger and ginseng. The soups were divine too!

5. Catching up with my uncle, aunt and cousin Su Suan over a simple breakfast. Wish we had more time!

6. Hawker food - nasi lemak, assam laksa, curry laksa, Indian mee goreng, nasi briyani, yong tau foo ... Malaysia is for the most part about food food and more food! The variety of food available is bamboooooooozling!

7. Hawker desserts - ice kacang and durian flavoured cendol was all I managed this trip... but they say all things in moderation preserves the essence! These babies gave me a sugar high which coooooled me down one humid evening!

8. Bread Story. This is a local bakery that was fashioned after Japanese style bakeries which were in turn an eaternised take on the French patisserie. Bread Story is uniquely Malaysian because you can get awesome fusion breads like a soft sweet baby baguette filled with otak-otak (a spicy Malaysian fish pate that I absolutely loved as a kid.... lucky for me, my mum still makes it at home!).

9. Mamak stalls. Mamaks are hawker style coffee shops found sporadically throughout KL and PJ. They are run by Indians who are Muslims and Kenneth's cousin Seng Po took us to his favourite one in PJ called Kayu Nasi Kandar. This is where I had my authentic teh tarik (tea with sweetened condensed milk which is pulled from one cup to another several times to create a frothy effect) fix which hit the spot! The nasi kandar (rice with an assortment of curries - see fish head curry picture in Kenneth's post below) tangoed on my tastebuds leaving me in delightfully curried out stupor. Just take note to stay away from the cabbage salad served as a side dish unless you want to lose all the weight gained (and more!) over previous gastronomic experiences by getting the runs like me the day after.

10. Living with Kenneth's relatives and still enjoying the comforts of home before we leave behind all that is familiar.