Assalam from Osh!

[Written on 21 July 2009]

Yesterday, we flew out of Bishkek to the southern town of Osh here in Kyrgzstan. Since the flight was just $US60, we thought we'd fly this leg instead of haggle at the bazaar in Bishkek for a taxi. A fair price for the taxi to drive the 13 hour stretch from Bishkek to Osh would have cost US$30 each.

Flying was quite an experience. Part of the air stip also functions as the US military base from which the US keeps an eye on Afghanistan. It was amazing to see real life US Air Force airplanes and troops. We flew in a small aircraft with Kyrgzstan Airlines and we soon understood why this was a blacklisted airline (by the way only 3 companies fly from Bishkek to Osh and they are all black listed). There was no air-con for half the duration of the flight and there were even flies in the cabin. It was sweltering in the cabin and everyone was using the cardboard given to us with safety instructions as a fan. Before take-off we were each given a black plastic bag because the chances of throwing up must have been probable.... in fact, I did feel nauseous towards the end of the flight when it dipped a few times. Also, after the air-con was switched off just before landing, the vents started leaking from precipitation! So Kenneth's pants got a little wet as there was a vent above him. Needless to say, this was yet another new experience for us but it wasn't too bad because it was just a 1 hour flight!

Osh certainly has a more Central Asian feel to it compared to Bishkek. Bishkek wasn't too unlike Almaty in terms of its Soviet layout with plenty of flags, dancing fountains and leafy parks with statues of the Soveit era's greats like Lenin. Osh is a lot more overtly Muslim with more women in head scarves but their dresses and clthing are still very colourful with plenty of prints on them.

Today, we walked through the main bazaar and saw amazing things for sale. We then headed for a little mountain called Solomon's Throne. Legend has it that this was where Solomon once came to sit and meditate. Not sure if it was where he may have written Proverbs or Ecclesiastes? Not sure if all this is truie but this is what the Muslims here believe. Solomon is 'Suleiman' to them. Osh is made up of up to 40% Uzbeks and the rest are Kyrgz. Not that many Russian here. This region has been fough over for centuries because Osh runs through the very fertile Fergana Valley and so many of the Central Asian nations want it to grow their crops. Very strangesly, the border of Kyrgzstan was drawn in such a way that this town which had to many Uzbeks ended up being part of Kyrgzstan instead of Uzbekistan! So we are staying at Osh Guesthouse which is run by Uzbeks!

Uzbeks look more north Indian or Iranian/Persian whereas Kyrgz have mixed Europeans and Asian features. I am now better able to differentiate between the various Central Asian races. Have not yet met any Tajiks or Turkmen so am increasingly curious about what they look like!

We are meeting a lot of European backpackers now and exchanging travel information and tips in passing ranging from the routes travelled to the cost of transport (so we don't get ripped off!). They are telling us about the things they have seen and experienced in Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Turkey (all places we are heading towards) whilst we are telling them who to contact in Bishkek, Kazakhstan, China and Mongolia because their onward journeys will take most of them to those places. It is just like the days of Marco Polo when the European traders passed through Osh to get to Asia with their horse laden goods and the Asian traders also passed through Osh with their spices, teas and crafts usually on camels or yaks. How amazing that we have reached the middle point of trade on the Silk Road!

Tomorrow, we will be sharing a private car with a Swiss girl we've met at Osh Guesthouse and we will head towards Sary-Tash and cross the Kyrgz-Tajik border. The Swiss girl will be getting off at Sary-Tash to cross the Irkhtam Pass into China and she is headed to Kashgar. She is a cyclist so she will cycle the rest of the way. The Europeans love to cycle the Silk Road - tough but amazing! We will then continue to Mugrab, Khorog and finally arrive in Dushanbe which is the capital of Tajikistan! At this stage, we have only worked out how to get to Mugrab. As per usual, we can't really book our onward journey in advance and it will need to be figured out once we get to Mugrab. This is the first time I am travelling and arranging things as I go! I have learnt to chill a bit more, be less structured and 'play it by ear'.

The weather is getting warmer and warmer but we are keeping hydrated as we seem to be very thirsty here in Osh. Otherwise, we are keeping well and God has been providing us contacts along the way to help us get to our next destination. It has been a bit like that in Central Asia. As I said, we can't always plan things in advance and you typically end up buying your plane tickets 3 hours before you fly! Just enough time to catch a taxi to take you to the airport and check in on time!

We have now reached our our 1/2 way in our journey both in terms of time and distance.