We are now in Dushanbe (Tajikistan), the prettiest capital in Central Asia but one with not that much to do. We got here by shared transport on a Toyota land cruiser which provided a much smoother ride than the Russian jeeps. We scored the ride by haggling at the Khorog Bazaar and it took us about 20 hours to get from Khorog to Dushanbe via Kalaikhoum.
It is impossible to share all that has happened in the last few days but life has certainly been eventful.
The most aggravating thing about Tajikistan is the fact that the government and those who are seemingly in authority abuse their power over the people who are already so poor. I now understand why a Kyrgz friend (corruption is also rife in Kyrgzstan) said she would not be voting in the Kyrgz elections because not voting is also taking a stand. In her own words, she said 'Voting for the current government means voting from a thief. Voting for the oppostion menas voting for an even bigger thief.' I didn't fully comprehend the gravity of this stamenet a week ago but I am now the wiser having travelled through Tajikistan and been searched by border guards so many times. The worst incident was when we met border guards at 10pm who simply created an issue in order to obtain a bribe. They insisted that the dates between which our Tajik visa is valid must correlate with the dates on another document we hold called a GBAO permit to enable us to travel along the Pamir Highway. This was absolute bull. The small dimly it 'registration office' was crowded with about 8 Tajik border guards glowering over us. I disappointed myself in allowing myself to be intimidated. Kenneth was prepared for us to be detained for the night and refused to pay the bribe as a matter of principle though he was mostly hoping that this would just call their bluff.
After about 45 minutes of arguing, our driver got our passports back and bundled us into the landcruiser to continue our journey. Only later did we discover that our driver did not have the heart to leave us behind and so he ended up paying the bribe to the border guards. We are still fuming over the injustices that these authoritative figures perpetuate against their own people who have grown to accept it as a way of life. Since that incident we have heard of other incredulous stories of what border guards and policemen have done to both locals and foreigners.
It makes me want to do something .... anything! Is there something that we as an international community can do?
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Hey Twatch,
ReplyDeleteFirstly, I just wanted to point out that you HAVE already done "something" - by writing the incident down in words, which is now available to be viewed by anyone who visits this blog, so well done for doing something about it.
Part of the issue with bribery/corruption is that it has become a way of life for some people. Its like a mindset or paradiagm. Very hard to shift or change, unless you can change the 'heart of man' - which we do know of one guy who can! I guess the second thing you can do is to pray against it in Jesus' Name!
Reminds me of Mark 3:24
"If a kingdom is divided against itself, that kingdom cannot stand."
But on the bright side - Praise God for such a kind driver who watched out of you two. There is still some goodness and humanity that we can find hope in.
I know, what a kind driver. Did you end up paying back the driver?
ReplyDeleteMust be frustrating, but all part of the experience in understanding this world that we live in.
xoxo
mims - great insights! i especially like the verse you quoted which sums up why these countries ruled by dictators annot progress. thanks for your encouragement too in pointing out that i have done something by blogging a bit about this issue. still, i feel very sorry for the local people who accept this as a way of life and know no different.
ReplyDeletefew - yeah, it was touching that the driver would pay the bribe for us. we did not pay him back because it would mean we paid the bribe. however, we did tip him extra money when we got to our destination (which we would have done regardless of the whole incident with the border guards). forgot to mention that one of the other passengers paid for our dinner 1/2 an hour after the incident. i think he may have been upset or embarrassed that we had to experience this side of tajikistan. so another very kind and generous gesture from a local. must try notto let the bad stuff taint all the good stuff!